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PROGRESS - my crochet project log

Black Microspun Crochet Cardigan

Dec 2005crochetacrylicinexpensivemediumgifted. to my much smaller mother who will look a lot better in it.

I think I will like this one a lot more when we're heading back into the spring/summer zone. Right now, all that holey-ness is just not appealing. Brr! It just seems like something I'd wear to the beach or similar. Though, ouch, watch the tan lines! On the other hand, it did come out more or less as I'd envisioned it. It came about because I was looking for a small project I could easily schlep about, and I had just noticed that Jo-Ann's has reduced its regular price on microspun to $2.50. With some patience and clever coupon usage, I managed to get every one of the 4 skeins it took to make this baby for at least 40% off. One was 50%! Go frugal crochet me!

This was free-formed, and I used the basic measurements of my similar blue waves cardigan as a guide. First I made one front piece up as I went along, using a [2DC-2CH-2DC] shell as the main motif, and star stitch bands to set off a wide band using a variation on the stitch pattern from my white halter. Then I made another piece the same way, but mirrored, for the other front piece. And then I made a double-wide version for the back. Joined them at the shoulders and sides, made the sleeves and sewed those in. Finally I went around the neck/front/bottom edges with starstitch and added the button loops and buttons.

Microspun was... well, I enjoyed the softness of it and the look of it, but the skeins were really messy. The last one was pretty much one long tangle that took forever to straighten out. And while I eventually got pretty good at catching all the strands on the first try, it wasn't the easiest thing ever to work with, even un-tangled. Still, I might try another project with it again sometime. One thing I'm curious about is whether or not it'd be possible to separate the strands and use fewer of them, like you do with embroidery floss. I think it'd be possible, but a big pain to separate that long a piece out. It would be much nicer if it just *came* in sportweight. Same price, twice the length, half the strands.

Body Front Notes

BASE: ch 37, SC 36

ROW 1-3: 6 double-Vs, 3 chain spacers

ROW 4-5: 2 chain spacers

ROW 6: 1 chain spacer

ROW 7: no spacers

ROW 8: SC 32

R9-R10: star stitch

R11-R17: ch3-sc-ch3 with ch2-sc-ch2 on alt rows. 2 DCs between sections.

R18: SC 32

R19-20: star stitch

R21-27: 6 double-vs, no spacers

R28: DC in 2nd double-V from edge

R29: DC in DC, DC in next double-V over.

R30-top: work even, 4 double-Vs.

Sleeve Notes

BASE: ch 32, join, sc in each chain around, slip stitch closed.

ROW 1: in every fourth stitch, put a V [DC-ch2-DC] or a double-V [2DC-ch2-2DC], alternating between the two. Should be 4 of each, or 8 units total. slip stitch row closed.

ROW 2-17: in each V, put a double-V; in each double-V, put a V. slip stitch row closed.

ROW 18-19: start seperating Vs from double-Vs with one chain.

ROW 20-29: increase the one chain space to a two chain space between units.

ROW 30: Continue as before, but at the end of the row, stop one short, and do not join.

ROW 31: Instead of going in the round, turn around and go back the other way without connecting (7 units)

ROW 32: Continue as before, but put a DC in the second unit from either end instead of a V/VV.

ROW 33: Decrease the 2 chain separator to 1 chain; DC in the DC decreases (counts as 1 chain separator)

ROW 34: Decrease 1 chain separator back down to no chains between Vs/VVs

ROW 35: Repeat 34.

ROW 36: Continue as before, but put DCs in the second unit from either end instead of a V/VV.

ROW 37: work even, skipping over DCs.

ROW 38: Put a partial DC in the outer units, combining them with the outer legs of the central VV.

ROW 39: DC 5 times in the center chain 2 space; slip stitch to far adge to complete arc.